ASHLEY BLACK SKINCARE · OPERATIONS

Make it ourselves

Which products in the Ashley Black skincare line we blend in-house, which we buy premade — and exactly how to make each one.

8products in the line
3we already make
4new ones we’ll blend —
47% less than buying them
1we’ll buy premade
All 8 can be offered online.
02 · How we decided

Three steps for every new product

1

Two options

For each new product, the research shortlisted two supplier formulas — Option A and Option B. ★ Option A is the better fit for the product; B is the runner-up.

2

Two ways to get it

Buy it premade from that supplier, or blend it ourselves: a matching base + our own Wholesale Botanics oils + a few bought-in actives.

3

Cheaper way wins

If blending costs less, we blend. If it costs more, we buy premade. Each new product gets a decision page, then a recipe page.

Reading the numbers

Premade$6.76per unit
Blended by us$2.50per unit
Difference63% lesscheaper to blend
  • Premade — what the supplier charges for the finished formula, per filled unit.
  • Blended by us — base + our oils + bought-in actives + mixing labor, per filled unit.
  • Difference — green = cheaper to blend; red = cheaper to buy premade.
  • Packaging and filling cost the same either way, so they are left out.
Body Smoothing · 200 mLStep 1 of 2 — which formula
04 · New product

Body Smoothing: which formula, and do we blend it?

Option A★ OUR PICK

Body Perfecting Lotion

Smoothing lotion for rough, dry body skin: niacinamide, rosehip, tamanu, shea.

Premade$6.76per 200 mL
Blended by us$2.50per 200 mL
Difference63% lesscheaper to blend

Why we picked it: Best fit for smoothing rough, crepey body texture.

Option BRUNNER-UP

Aqua Drench Body Cream with Collagen

Hydrating body cream with marine collagen and seaweed.

Premade$3.28per 200 mL
Blended by us$2.54per 200 mL
Difference22% lesscheaper to blend

Why it isn’t the pick: Hydrates but doesn’t target texture, and it isn’t vegan (marine collagen). Saves less, too.

DecisionBlend Option A ourselves.WE BLEND IT
Body Smoothing · 200 mLStep 2 of 2 — how to make it
05 · Recipe

How to make Body Smoothing

Premade$6.76per 200 mL
Blended by us$2.50per 200 mL
Difference63% lesscheaper to blend
Per 5-gal batch (95 units): $640 premade · $237 blended

1What to buy

  • RainShadow Labs · 5 gal $167.50 · $8.85/L
    Order 5 gal per batch
  • Bought-in activesper batch
  • BUY Niacinamide398 g
    MakingCosmetics · Niacinamide USP · 5 kg $224.80
  • BUY MSM powder199 g
    BulkSupplements · MSM powder · 1 kg $27.97 (supplement grade)

2Pull from our shelf Wholesale Botanics

  • ✓Rosehip Oil199 g
  • ✓Tamanu Oil199 g

3Recipe Start with one 5-gal pail of base (≈ 18.9 kg); finished batch ≈ 19.9 kg

Ingredient%per 1 kg of baseper 5-gal pail of base
BASE All Purpose Lotion95.0%1,000 g18.93 kg
BUY Niacinamide2.00%21 g398 g
OURS Rosehip Oil1.00%11 g199 g
OURS Tamanu Oil1.00%11 g199 g
BUY MSM powder1.00%11 g199 g

≠How ours differs from theirs

Rosehip and tamanu from our shelf (the base already has vitamin E and panthenol); niacinamide and MSM are cheap powders. Glycolic acid and trace extracts dropped.

Left out (11): Undaria Pinnatifida Cell Culture, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Haematococcus Pluvialis, Glycolic Acid, Glycyrrhiza Glabra and 6 more — trace extracts and boosters.

4How to mix

  1. Clean & set up. Sanitize the mixing vessel, overhead mixer / stick blender, spatulas and beakers with 70% isopropyl alcohol. Gloves on.
  2. Weigh the base. Weigh the base into the mixing vessel (5 gal of base ≈ 18.9 kg — weigh it, don’t trust the pail line).
  3. Oil pre-mix. Weigh our oils together in a beaker. Pour slowly into the base while mixing on low for 3–5 minutes.
  4. Powders. Dissolve the niacinamide and MSM powder in warm (40 °C) distilled water — about twice their weight — then stir it in.
  5. Check & rest. Mix until uniform and scrape the sides. Compare with the supplier sample (colour, smell, thickness), check pH is 5.0–6.5. Rest 24 h, re-check for separation, keep a 2 oz retain sample, label with batch # and date, then fill.
Base match 100% (strong) · their formula has 37 ingredients · formula cost only · figures from the make-vs-buy workbook v2
Neck + Chest Smoothing · 50 mLStep 1 of 2 — which formula
06 · New product

Neck + Chest Smoothing: which formula, and do we blend it?

Option A★ OUR PICK

Ultra Face & Neck Firming Cream

Firming cream for neck and chest: two peptides, hyaluronic acid, squalane.

Premade$3.69per 50 mL
Blended by us$1.72per 50 mL
Difference53% lesscheaper to blend

Why we picked it: The most targeted formula for the neck and chest.

Option BRUNNER-UP

Face/Neck Firming Lotion

Richer, oil-heavy firming lotion.

Premade$1.13per 50 mL
Blended by us$1.70per 50 mL
Difference50% morecheaper to buy premade

Why it isn’t the pick: Not vegan (beeswax, royal jelly), and blending it costs more than buying it.

DecisionBlend Option A ourselves.WE BLEND IT
Neck + Chest Smoothing · 50 mLStep 2 of 2 — how to make it
07 · Recipe

How to make Neck + Chest Smoothing

Premade$3.69per 50 mL
Blended by us$1.72per 50 mL
Difference53% lesscheaper to blend
Per 5-gal batch (379 units): $1,395 premade · $649 blended

1What to buy

2Pull from our shelf Wholesale Botanics

  • ✓Squalane (olive)407 g
  • ✓Evening Primrose Oil203 g

3Recipe Start with one 5-gal pail of base (≈ 18.9 kg); finished batch ≈ 20.3 kg

Ingredient%per 1 kg of baseper 5-gal pail of base
BASE All Purpose Lotion93.1%1,000 g18.93 kg
BUY Matrixyl 3000-type peptide3.00%32 g610 g
OURS Squalane (olive)2.00%21 g407 g
OURS Evening Primrose Oil1.00%11 g203 g
BUY Licorice root extract0.50%5.4 g102 g
BUY Hyaluronic acid powder0.20%2.1 g41 g
BUY Allantoin0.20%2.1 g41 g

≠How ours differs from theirs

Squalane and evening primrose from our shelf; the firming story is two peptides + HA (bought in). Fruit acids, pullulan and algae extracts dropped.

Left out (9): Saccharum Officinarum, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis, Acer Saccharum, Nannochloropsis Oculata, Equisetum Arvense and 4 more — trace extracts and boosters.

4How to mix

  1. Clean & set up. Sanitize the mixing vessel, overhead mixer / stick blender, spatulas and beakers with 70% isopropyl alcohol. Gloves on.
  2. Weigh the base. Weigh the base into the mixing vessel (5 gal of base ≈ 18.9 kg — weigh it, don’t trust the pail line).
  3. Oil pre-mix. Weigh our oils together in a beaker. Pour slowly into the base while mixing on low for 3–5 minutes.
  4. Powders. Sprinkle the allantoin in slowly while mixing (it disperses; it does not need to dissolve).
  5. Hyaluronic acid. Stir the hyaluronic acid powder into 5× its weight of vegetable glycerin to make a smooth slurry, add to the batch, mix, rest 1 hour and mix again.
  6. Liquid actives last. At room temperature (below 40 °C) add the licorice root extract and Matrixyl 3000-type peptide. Mix gently 3–5 minutes — no heat, no hard whipping.
  7. Check & rest. Mix until uniform and scrape the sides. Compare with the supplier sample (colour, smell, thickness). Rest 24 h, re-check for separation, keep a 2 oz retain sample, label with batch # and date, then fill.
Base match 85% (strong) · their formula has 42 ingredients · formula cost only · figures from the make-vs-buy workbook v2
Night Treatment · 30 mLStep 1 of 2 — which formula
08 · New product

Night Treatment: which formula, and do we blend it?

Option A★ OUR PICK

Age Defying & Hydrating Face Cream

Overnight cream with bakuchiol (a plant alternative to retinol) and hyaluronic acid.

Premade$1.27per 30 mL
Blended by us$1.35per 30 mL
Difference6% morecheaper to buy premade

Why we picked it: Best fit for an overnight fine-line cream.

Option BRUNNER-UP

ExoRenew Cream

Premium night cream with bakuchiol and resveratrol.

Premade$2.62per 30 mL
Blended by us$0.60per 30 mL
Difference77% lesscheaper to blend

Why it isn’t the pick: Not the first pick on formula fit — but it is the cheapest to blend.

DecisionBuy Option A premade from Envii — blending it costs more.WE BUY IT PREMADE
Your call: blending Option B costs $0.60 a jar — less than buying either one premade (A $1.27, B $2.62). Switch to B if its feel is right; its recipe is on the next page.
Night Treatment · 30 mLStep 2 of 2 — how to make it (if we switch)
09 · Recipe

How to make Night Treatment

Only needed if we switch Night to Option B — the current decision is to buy Option A premade.
Premade$2.62per 30 mL
Blended by us$0.60per 30 mL
Difference77% lesscheaper to blend
Per 5-gal batch (631 units): $1,650 premade · $377 blended

1What to buy

  • RainShadow Labs · 5 gal $167.50 · $8.85/L
    Order 5 gal per batch
  • Bought-in activesper batch
  • Formulator Sample Shop · Bakuchiol 99% · 1 kg $1,300
  • BUY Allantoin39 g
    MakingCosmetics · Allantoin · 1 kg $63.90
  • BUY Resveratrol39 g
    Lotioncrafter · Resveratrol Pure · 1 kg $999.95
  • Lotioncrafter · 10 lb $42.55 · for the glycerin slurry (step on the right)

2Pull from our shelf Wholesale Botanics

  • ✓Argan Oil194 g
  • ✓Chia Seed Oil97 g

3Recipe Start with one 5-gal pail of base (≈ 18.9 kg); finished batch ≈ 19.4 kg

Ingredient%per 1 kg of baseper 5-gal pail of base
BASE All Purpose Lotion97.6%1,000 g18.93 kg
OURS Argan Oil1.00%10 g194 g
BUY Bakuchiol (99% pure)0.50%5.1 g97 g
OURS Chia Seed Oil0.50%5.1 g97 g
BUY Allantoin0.20%2.0 g39 g
BUY Resveratrol0.20%2.0 g39 g

≠How ours differs from theirs

Jojoba and argan from our shelf; bakuchiol (disclosed 0.5%) and resveratrol bought in; "exosomes", apple extract and phospholipids dropped.

Left out (5): Pyrus Malus, Phospholipids, Momordica Charantia Fruit, Centella Asiatica, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Lysate Filtrate — trace extracts and boosters.

4How to mix

  1. Clean & set up. Sanitize the mixing vessel, overhead mixer / stick blender, spatulas and beakers with 70% isopropyl alcohol. Gloves on.
  2. Weigh the base. Weigh the base into the mixing vessel (5 gal of base ≈ 18.9 kg — weigh it, don’t trust the pail line).
  3. Oil pre-mix. Weigh our oils and bakuchiol together in a beaker. Warm to 40–45 °C and stir until clear. Pour slowly into the base while mixing on low for 3–5 minutes.
  4. Powders. Sprinkle the allantoin in slowly while mixing (it disperses; it does not need to dissolve).
  5. Resveratrol. Stir the resveratrol into 5× its weight of vegetable glycerin to make a smooth slurry, add to the batch, mix, rest 1 hour and mix again.
  6. Check & rest. Mix until uniform and scrape the sides. Compare with the supplier sample (colour, smell, thickness). Rest 24 h, re-check for separation, keep a 2 oz retain sample, label with batch # and date, then fill.
Base match 92% (strong) · their formula has 25 ingredients · formula cost only · figures from the make-vs-buy workbook v2
Eye Smoothing · 15 mLStep 1 of 2 — which formula
10 · New product

Eye Smoothing: which formula, and do we blend it?

Option A★ OUR PICK

Peptide Eye Gel

Light eye gel: peptide, hyaluronic acid, cucumber, with castor, jojoba and avocado oils.

Premade$0.74per 15 mL
Blended by us$0.70per 15 mL
Difference5% lesscheaper to blend

Why we picked it: Best fit for dry fine lines under the eyes.

Option BRUNNER-UP

ExoSmooth Eye Cream

Premium eye cream with 1% bakuchiol and plant peptides.

Premade$1.58per 15 mL
Blended by us—no matching base
Differencecan’t blend

Why it isn’t the pick: Twice the price to buy, and we can’t make it — no base anywhere matches it.

DecisionBlend Option A — the saving is small, so buying premade is fine too.WE BLEND IT
Eye Smoothing · 15 mLStep 2 of 2 — how to make it
11 · Recipe

How to make Eye Smoothing

Premade$0.74per 15 mL
Blended by us$0.70per 15 mL
Difference5% lesscheaper to blend
Per 5-gal batch (1,262 units): $935 premade · $889 blended

1What to buy

2Pull from our shelf Wholesale Botanics

  • ✓Castor Oil659 g
  • ✓Jojoba Oil439 g
  • ✓Avocado Oil439 g
  • ✓Coffee oil55 g

3Recipe Start with one 5-gal pail of base (≈ 18.9 kg); finished batch ≈ 22.0 kg

Ingredient%per 1 kg of baseper 5-gal pail of base
BASE Aloe Vera Gel86.1%1,000 g18.93 kg
BUY Argireline peptide solution5.00%58 g1.10 kg
OURS Castor Oil3.00%35 g659 g
OURS Jojoba Oil2.00%23 g439 g
OURS Avocado Oil2.00%23 g439 g
BUY Cucumber fruit extract1.00%12 g220 g
BUY Licorice root extract0.50%5.8 g110 g
OURS Coffee oil0.25%2.9 g55 g
BUY Hyaluronic acid powder0.10%1.2 g22 g

≠How ours differs from theirs

Aloe gel + castor, jojoba, avocado (all ours) + Argireline and HA. Argireline at 5% is the cost driver; vitamin K dropped.

Left out (1): Vitamin K — trace extracts and boosters.

4How to mix

  1. Clean & set up. Sanitize the mixing vessel, overhead mixer / stick blender, spatulas and beakers with 70% isopropyl alcohol. Gloves on.
  2. Weigh the base. Weigh the base into the mixing vessel (5 gal of base ≈ 18.9 kg — weigh it, don’t trust the pail line).
  3. Oil pre-mix. Weigh our oils together in a beaker. Pour slowly into the base while mixing on low for 3–5 minutes. If the gel looks streaky after 24 h, next batch pre-mix the oils with an equal weight of polysorbate 20.
  4. Hyaluronic acid. Stir the hyaluronic acid powder into 5× its weight of vegetable glycerin to make a smooth slurry, add to the batch, mix, rest 1 hour and mix again.
  5. Liquid actives last. At room temperature (below 40 °C) add the licorice root extract, cucumber fruit extract and Argireline solution. Mix gently 3–5 minutes — no heat, no hard whipping.
  6. Check & rest. Mix until uniform and scrape the sides. Compare with the supplier sample (colour, smell, thickness). Rest 24 h, re-check for separation, keep a 2 oz retain sample, label with batch # and date, then fill.
Base match 89% (strong) · their formula has 15 ingredients · formula cost only · figures from the make-vs-buy workbook v2
Daily Plumping Moisturizer · 50 mLStep 1 of 2 — which formula
12 · New product

Daily Plumping Moisturizer: which formula, and do we blend it?

Option A★ OUR PICK

Niacinamide & HA Water Cream

Daily moisturizer with 2% niacinamide and hyaluronic acid.

Premade$2.25per 50 mL
Blended by us$0.65per 50 mL
Difference71% lesscheaper to blend

Why we picked it: Best daily fit, with a published 2% niacinamide level.

Option BRUNNER-UP

Peptide Complex Moisturizer

Aloe moisturizer with a peptide complex.

Premade$0.73per 50 mL
Blended by us$1.75per 50 mL
Difference139% morecheaper to buy premade

Why it isn’t the pick: Overlaps Peptide Potion, and its peptides cost more to buy than the supplier charges.

DecisionBlend Option A ourselves.WE BLEND IT
Daily Plumping Moisturizer · 50 mLStep 2 of 2 — how to make it
13 · Recipe

How to make Daily Plumping Moisturizer

Premade$2.25per 50 mL
Blended by us$0.65per 50 mL
Difference71% lesscheaper to blend
Per 5-gal batch (379 units): $850 premade · $247 blended

1What to buy

  • RainShadow Labs · 5 gal $167.50 · $8.85/L
    Order 5 gal per batch
  • Bought-in activesper batch
  • BUY Niacinamide391 g
    MakingCosmetics · Niacinamide USP · 5 kg $224.80
  • MakingCosmetics · Hyaluronic Acid (HMW) · 1 kg $498
  • Lotioncrafter · 10 lb $42.55 · for the glycerin slurry (step on the right)

2Pull from our shelf Wholesale Botanics

  • ✓Avocado Oil98 g
  • ✓Red Raspberry Seed Oil98 g

3Recipe Start with one 5-gal pail of base (≈ 18.9 kg); finished batch ≈ 19.6 kg

Ingredient%per 1 kg of baseper 5-gal pail of base
BASE All Purpose Lotion96.8%1,000 g18.93 kg
BUY Niacinamide2.00%21 g391 g
OURS Avocado Oil0.50%5.2 g98 g
OURS Red Raspberry Seed Oil0.50%5.2 g98 g
BUY Hyaluronic acid powder0.20%2.1 g39 g

≠How ours differs from theirs

Niacinamide (disclosed 2%) + HA bought in; cloudberry oil swapped for our red raspberry seed oil.

4How to mix

  1. Clean & set up. Sanitize the mixing vessel, overhead mixer / stick blender, spatulas and beakers with 70% isopropyl alcohol. Gloves on.
  2. Weigh the base. Weigh the base into the mixing vessel (5 gal of base ≈ 18.9 kg — weigh it, don’t trust the pail line).
  3. Oil pre-mix. Weigh our oils together in a beaker. Pour slowly into the base while mixing on low for 3–5 minutes.
  4. Powders. Dissolve the niacinamide in warm (40 °C) distilled water — about twice their weight — then stir it in.
  5. Hyaluronic acid. Stir the hyaluronic acid powder into 5× its weight of vegetable glycerin to make a smooth slurry, add to the batch, mix, rest 1 hour and mix again.
  6. Check & rest. Mix until uniform and scrape the sides. Compare with the supplier sample (colour, smell, thickness), check pH is 5.0–6.5. Rest 24 h, re-check for separation, keep a 2 oz retain sample, label with batch # and date, then fill.
Base match 92% (strong) · their formula has 22 ingredients · formula cost only · figures from the make-vs-buy workbook v2
14 · Already made in-house

These three stay exactly as they are

No decision needed — we are not switching to a supplier formula.
WE MAKE IT NOW

Collagen Elixir

face oil · 60 mL

We already make this in-house. Keep our own formula — nothing to buy, nothing changes.

The research also listed two supplier formulas for it. They are price benchmarks only:

  • ★ NourishUs Naturals — Rejuvenating Skin Oil$8.69 per 60 mL premade
  • Natural Wholesale — Bakuchiol Treatment Oil$3.11 per 60 mL premade
WE MAKE IT NOW

Peptide Potion

serum · 60 mL

We already make this in-house. Keep our own formula — nothing to buy, nothing changes.

The research also listed two supplier formulas for it. They are price benchmarks only:

  • ★ RainShadow Labs — Peptide Complex Serum$1.22 per 60 mL premade
  • Nardo's Natural — Peptide Wrinkle Serum$3.92 per 60 mL premade
WE MAKE IT NOW

Arctic Alchemy

cooling gel · 60 mL

We already make this in-house. Keep our own formula — nothing to buy, nothing changes.

The research also listed two supplier formulas for it. They are price benchmarks only:

  • ★ RainShadow Labs — Cooling Cucumber & Spirulina Gel$0.69 per 60 mL premade
  • RainShadow Labs — Natural Aloe Vera Gel$0.56 per 60 mL premade
15 · Shopping list

Everything for one 5-gal batch of each blend

Body Smoothing, Neck + Chest Smoothing, Eye Smoothing, Daily Plumping Moisturizer. Bases $640 in total; most active packs last several batches. Night is bought premade, so it isn’t here.

ABases to order

BaseOrderCost
All Purpose LotionRainShadow Labs · $8.85/L3 × 5 gal $502
for Body Smoothing, Neck + Chest Smoothing, Daily Plumping Moisturizer
Aloe Vera GelOrganic Creations · $7.29/L1 × 5 Gal - Preserve $138
for Eye Smoothing

BActives to order

  • Argireline peptide solution1.10 kg
    Lotioncrafter · Argireline NP solution · 480 g $334.75 · for Eye Smoothing
  • Niacinamide790 g
    MakingCosmetics · Niacinamide USP · 5 kg $224.80 · for Body Smoothing, Daily Plumping Moisturizer
  • Matrixyl 3000-type peptide610 g
    Lotioncrafter · LCPeptide 3000 (PT-1 + PT-7) · 480 g $320.25 · for Neck + Chest Smoothing
  • Vegetable glycerin509 g
    Lotioncrafter · 10 lb $42.55 · for Neck + Chest Smoothing, Eye Smoothing, Daily Plumping Moisturizer
  • Cucumber fruit extract220 g
    Formulator Sample Shop · Cucumber Extract G PF · 1 kg $61 · for Eye Smoothing
  • Licorice root extract211 g
    Formulator Sample Shop · Licorice Root Extract PF · 1 kg $56.25 · for Neck + Chest Smoothing, Eye Smoothing
  • MSM powder199 g
    BulkSupplements · MSM powder · 1 kg $27.97 (supplement grade) · for Body Smoothing
  • Hyaluronic acid powder102 g
    MakingCosmetics · Hyaluronic Acid (HMW) · 1 kg $498 · for Neck + Chest Smoothing, Eye Smoothing, Daily Plumping Moisturizer
  • Allantoin41 g
    MakingCosmetics · Allantoin · 1 kg $63.90 · for Neck + Chest Smoothing

CPull from our shelf

  • ✓Castor Oilfor Eye Smoothing659 g
  • ✓Avocado Oilfor Eye Smoothing, Daily Plumping Moisturizer537 g
  • ✓Jojoba Oilfor Eye Smoothing439 g
  • ✓Squalane (olive)for Neck + Chest Smoothing407 g
  • ✓Evening Primrose Oilfor Neck + Chest Smoothing203 g
  • ✓Rosehip Oilfor Body Smoothing199 g
  • ✓Tamanu Oilfor Body Smoothing199 g
  • ✓Red Raspberry Seed Oilfor Daily Plumping Moisturizer98 g
  • ✓Coffee oilfor Eye Smoothing55 g
16 · Mixing basics

House rules for every batch

✓Equipment

  • Bench scale to 0.1 g (actives) + floor scale to 30 kg (base)
  • Stainless or HDPE mixing vessel, 8-gal
  • Overhead mixer or heavy stick blender, low speed
  • Beakers, spatulas, warm-water bath, thermometer
  • pH strips or pH meter (for niacinamide / MSM products)
  • 70% isopropyl alcohol spray, nitrile gloves, hair net

!Golden rules

  • Pilot 1 gal first for every new recipe and compare side-by-side with the supplier sample.
  • Weigh everything in grams — never by volume.
  • Oils go in pre-mixed, poured slowly while mixing.
  • Actives (peptides, extracts) go in last, below 40 °C.
  • Keep total add-ins under 15% of the batch so the base’s preservative still works.

✎Before it ships

  • Look, smell and thickness match the supplier sample
  • pH 5.0–6.5 where the recipe says to check it
  • Rest 24 h; no separation, streaks or grit
  • Keep a 2 oz retain sample per batch
  • Batch record: date, batch #, lot numbers, weights, who mixed it
  • First batch of each product: send one sample for a preservative (challenge) test