Make it ourselves
Which products in the Ashley Black skincare line we blend in-house, which we buy premade — and exactly how to make each one.
47% less than buying them
Three steps for every new product
Two options
For each new product, the research shortlisted two supplier formulas — Option A and Option B. ★ Option A is the better fit for the product; B is the runner-up.
Two ways to get it
Buy it premade from that supplier, or blend it ourselves: a matching base + our own Wholesale Botanics oils + a few bought-in actives.
Cheaper way wins
If blending costs less, we blend. If it costs more, we buy premade. Each new product gets a decision page, then a recipe page.
Reading the numbers
- Premade — what the supplier charges for the finished formula, per filled unit.
- Blended by us — base + our oils + bought-in actives + mixing labor, per filled unit.
- Difference — green = cheaper to blend; red = cheaper to buy premade.
- Packaging and filling cost the same either way, so they are left out.
All eight products, one decision each
Body Smoothing: which formula, and do we blend it?
Body Perfecting Lotion
Smoothing lotion for rough, dry body skin: niacinamide, rosehip, tamanu, shea.
Why we picked it: Best fit for smoothing rough, crepey body texture.
Aqua Drench Body Cream with Collagen
Hydrating body cream with marine collagen and seaweed.
Why it isn’t the pick: Hydrates but doesn’t target texture, and it isn’t vegan (marine collagen). Saves less, too.
1What to buy
- BASE All Purpose LotionRainShadow Labs · 5 gal $167.50 · $8.85/LOrder 5 gal per batch
- Bought-in activesper batch
-
MakingCosmetics · Niacinamide USP · 5 kg $224.80
-
BulkSupplements · MSM powder · 1 kg $27.97 (supplement grade)
2Pull from our shelf Wholesale Botanics
- ✓Rosehip Oil199 g
- ✓Tamanu Oil199 g
3Recipe Start with one 5-gal pail of base (≈ 18.9 kg); finished batch ≈ 19.9 kg
| Ingredient | % | per 1 kg of base | per 5-gal pail of base |
|---|---|---|---|
| BASE All Purpose Lotion | 95.0% | 1,000 g | 18.93 kg |
| BUY Niacinamide | 2.00% | 21 g | 398 g |
| OURS Rosehip Oil | 1.00% | 11 g | 199 g |
| OURS Tamanu Oil | 1.00% | 11 g | 199 g |
| BUY MSM powder | 1.00% | 11 g | 199 g |
≠How ours differs from theirs
Rosehip and tamanu from our shelf (the base already has vitamin E and panthenol); niacinamide and MSM are cheap powders. Glycolic acid and trace extracts dropped.
Left out (11): Undaria Pinnatifida Cell Culture, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Haematococcus Pluvialis, Glycolic Acid, Glycyrrhiza Glabra and 6 more — trace extracts and boosters.
4How to mix
- Clean & set up. Sanitize the mixing vessel, overhead mixer / stick blender, spatulas and beakers with 70% isopropyl alcohol. Gloves on.
- Weigh the base. Weigh the base into the mixing vessel (5 gal of base ≈ 18.9 kg — weigh it, don’t trust the pail line).
- Oil pre-mix. Weigh our oils together in a beaker. Pour slowly into the base while mixing on low for 3–5 minutes.
- Powders. Dissolve the niacinamide and MSM powder in warm (40 °C) distilled water — about twice their weight — then stir it in.
- Check & rest. Mix until uniform and scrape the sides. Compare with the supplier sample (colour, smell, thickness), check pH is 5.0–6.5. Rest 24 h, re-check for separation, keep a 2 oz retain sample, label with batch # and date, then fill.
Neck + Chest Smoothing: which formula, and do we blend it?
Ultra Face & Neck Firming Cream
Firming cream for neck and chest: two peptides, hyaluronic acid, squalane.
Why we picked it: The most targeted formula for the neck and chest.
Face/Neck Firming Lotion
Richer, oil-heavy firming lotion.
Why it isn’t the pick: Not vegan (beeswax, royal jelly), and blending it costs more than buying it.
How to make Neck + Chest Smoothing
1What to buy
- BASE All Purpose LotionRainShadow Labs · 5 gal $167.50 · $8.85/LOrder 5 gal per batch
- Bought-in activesper batch
-
MakingCosmetics · Hyaluronic Acid (HMW) · 1 kg $498
-
Lotioncrafter · LCPeptide 3000 (PT-1 + PT-7) · 480 g $320.25
-
MakingCosmetics · Allantoin · 1 kg $63.90
-
Formulator Sample Shop · Licorice Root Extract PF · 1 kg $56.25
-
Lotioncrafter · 10 lb $42.55 · for the glycerin slurry (step on the right)
2Pull from our shelf Wholesale Botanics
- ✓Squalane (olive)407 g
- ✓Evening Primrose Oil203 g
3Recipe Start with one 5-gal pail of base (≈ 18.9 kg); finished batch ≈ 20.3 kg
| Ingredient | % | per 1 kg of base | per 5-gal pail of base |
|---|---|---|---|
| BASE All Purpose Lotion | 93.1% | 1,000 g | 18.93 kg |
| BUY Matrixyl 3000-type peptide | 3.00% | 32 g | 610 g |
| OURS Squalane (olive) | 2.00% | 21 g | 407 g |
| OURS Evening Primrose Oil | 1.00% | 11 g | 203 g |
| BUY Licorice root extract | 0.50% | 5.4 g | 102 g |
| BUY Hyaluronic acid powder | 0.20% | 2.1 g | 41 g |
| BUY Allantoin | 0.20% | 2.1 g | 41 g |
≠How ours differs from theirs
Squalane and evening primrose from our shelf; the firming story is two peptides + HA (bought in). Fruit acids, pullulan and algae extracts dropped.
Left out (9): Saccharum Officinarum, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis, Acer Saccharum, Nannochloropsis Oculata, Equisetum Arvense and 4 more — trace extracts and boosters.
4How to mix
- Clean & set up. Sanitize the mixing vessel, overhead mixer / stick blender, spatulas and beakers with 70% isopropyl alcohol. Gloves on.
- Weigh the base. Weigh the base into the mixing vessel (5 gal of base ≈ 18.9 kg — weigh it, don’t trust the pail line).
- Oil pre-mix. Weigh our oils together in a beaker. Pour slowly into the base while mixing on low for 3–5 minutes.
- Powders. Sprinkle the allantoin in slowly while mixing (it disperses; it does not need to dissolve).
- Hyaluronic acid. Stir the hyaluronic acid powder into 5× its weight of vegetable glycerin to make a smooth slurry, add to the batch, mix, rest 1 hour and mix again.
- Liquid actives last. At room temperature (below 40 °C) add the licorice root extract and Matrixyl 3000-type peptide. Mix gently 3–5 minutes — no heat, no hard whipping.
- Check & rest. Mix until uniform and scrape the sides. Compare with the supplier sample (colour, smell, thickness). Rest 24 h, re-check for separation, keep a 2 oz retain sample, label with batch # and date, then fill.
Night Treatment: which formula, and do we blend it?
Age Defying & Hydrating Face Cream
Overnight cream with bakuchiol (a plant alternative to retinol) and hyaluronic acid.
Why we picked it: Best fit for an overnight fine-line cream.
ExoRenew Cream
Premium night cream with bakuchiol and resveratrol.
Why it isn’t the pick: Not the first pick on formula fit — but it is the cheapest to blend.
How to make Night Treatment
1What to buy
- BASE All Purpose LotionRainShadow Labs · 5 gal $167.50 · $8.85/LOrder 5 gal per batch
- Bought-in activesper batch
-
Formulator Sample Shop · Bakuchiol 99% · 1 kg $1,300
-
MakingCosmetics · Allantoin · 1 kg $63.90
-
Lotioncrafter · Resveratrol Pure · 1 kg $999.95
-
Lotioncrafter · 10 lb $42.55 · for the glycerin slurry (step on the right)
2Pull from our shelf Wholesale Botanics
- ✓Argan Oil194 g
- ✓Chia Seed Oil97 g
3Recipe Start with one 5-gal pail of base (≈ 18.9 kg); finished batch ≈ 19.4 kg
| Ingredient | % | per 1 kg of base | per 5-gal pail of base |
|---|---|---|---|
| BASE All Purpose Lotion | 97.6% | 1,000 g | 18.93 kg |
| OURS Argan Oil | 1.00% | 10 g | 194 g |
| BUY Bakuchiol (99% pure) | 0.50% | 5.1 g | 97 g |
| OURS Chia Seed Oil | 0.50% | 5.1 g | 97 g |
| BUY Allantoin | 0.20% | 2.0 g | 39 g |
| BUY Resveratrol | 0.20% | 2.0 g | 39 g |
≠How ours differs from theirs
Jojoba and argan from our shelf; bakuchiol (disclosed 0.5%) and resveratrol bought in; "exosomes", apple extract and phospholipids dropped.
Left out (5): Pyrus Malus, Phospholipids, Momordica Charantia Fruit, Centella Asiatica, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Lysate Filtrate — trace extracts and boosters.
4How to mix
- Clean & set up. Sanitize the mixing vessel, overhead mixer / stick blender, spatulas and beakers with 70% isopropyl alcohol. Gloves on.
- Weigh the base. Weigh the base into the mixing vessel (5 gal of base ≈ 18.9 kg — weigh it, don’t trust the pail line).
- Oil pre-mix. Weigh our oils and bakuchiol together in a beaker. Warm to 40–45 °C and stir until clear. Pour slowly into the base while mixing on low for 3–5 minutes.
- Powders. Sprinkle the allantoin in slowly while mixing (it disperses; it does not need to dissolve).
- Resveratrol. Stir the resveratrol into 5× its weight of vegetable glycerin to make a smooth slurry, add to the batch, mix, rest 1 hour and mix again.
- Check & rest. Mix until uniform and scrape the sides. Compare with the supplier sample (colour, smell, thickness). Rest 24 h, re-check for separation, keep a 2 oz retain sample, label with batch # and date, then fill.
Eye Smoothing: which formula, and do we blend it?
Peptide Eye Gel
Light eye gel: peptide, hyaluronic acid, cucumber, with castor, jojoba and avocado oils.
Why we picked it: Best fit for dry fine lines under the eyes.
ExoSmooth Eye Cream
Premium eye cream with 1% bakuchiol and plant peptides.
Why it isn’t the pick: Twice the price to buy, and we can’t make it — no base anywhere matches it.
How to make Eye Smoothing
1What to buy
- BASE Aloe Vera GelOrganic Creations · 5 Gal - Preserve $138.00 · $7.29/LOrder 5 Gal - Preserve per batch
- Bought-in activesper batch
-
Lotioncrafter · Argireline NP solution · 480 g $334.75
-
MakingCosmetics · Hyaluronic Acid (HMW) · 1 kg $498
-
Formulator Sample Shop · Cucumber Extract G PF · 1 kg $61
-
Formulator Sample Shop · Licorice Root Extract PF · 1 kg $56.25
-
Lotioncrafter · 10 lb $42.55 · for the glycerin slurry (step on the right)
2Pull from our shelf Wholesale Botanics
- ✓Castor Oil659 g
- ✓Jojoba Oil439 g
- ✓Avocado Oil439 g
- ✓Coffee oil55 g
3Recipe Start with one 5-gal pail of base (≈ 18.9 kg); finished batch ≈ 22.0 kg
| Ingredient | % | per 1 kg of base | per 5-gal pail of base |
|---|---|---|---|
| BASE Aloe Vera Gel | 86.1% | 1,000 g | 18.93 kg |
| BUY Argireline peptide solution | 5.00% | 58 g | 1.10 kg |
| OURS Castor Oil | 3.00% | 35 g | 659 g |
| OURS Jojoba Oil | 2.00% | 23 g | 439 g |
| OURS Avocado Oil | 2.00% | 23 g | 439 g |
| BUY Cucumber fruit extract | 1.00% | 12 g | 220 g |
| BUY Licorice root extract | 0.50% | 5.8 g | 110 g |
| OURS Coffee oil | 0.25% | 2.9 g | 55 g |
| BUY Hyaluronic acid powder | 0.10% | 1.2 g | 22 g |
≠How ours differs from theirs
Aloe gel + castor, jojoba, avocado (all ours) + Argireline and HA. Argireline at 5% is the cost driver; vitamin K dropped.
Left out (1): Vitamin K — trace extracts and boosters.
4How to mix
- Clean & set up. Sanitize the mixing vessel, overhead mixer / stick blender, spatulas and beakers with 70% isopropyl alcohol. Gloves on.
- Weigh the base. Weigh the base into the mixing vessel (5 gal of base ≈ 18.9 kg — weigh it, don’t trust the pail line).
- Oil pre-mix. Weigh our oils together in a beaker. Pour slowly into the base while mixing on low for 3–5 minutes. If the gel looks streaky after 24 h, next batch pre-mix the oils with an equal weight of polysorbate 20.
- Hyaluronic acid. Stir the hyaluronic acid powder into 5× its weight of vegetable glycerin to make a smooth slurry, add to the batch, mix, rest 1 hour and mix again.
- Liquid actives last. At room temperature (below 40 °C) add the licorice root extract, cucumber fruit extract and Argireline solution. Mix gently 3–5 minutes — no heat, no hard whipping.
- Check & rest. Mix until uniform and scrape the sides. Compare with the supplier sample (colour, smell, thickness). Rest 24 h, re-check for separation, keep a 2 oz retain sample, label with batch # and date, then fill.
Daily Plumping Moisturizer: which formula, and do we blend it?
Niacinamide & HA Water Cream
Daily moisturizer with 2% niacinamide and hyaluronic acid.
Why we picked it: Best daily fit, with a published 2% niacinamide level.
Peptide Complex Moisturizer
Aloe moisturizer with a peptide complex.
Why it isn’t the pick: Overlaps Peptide Potion, and its peptides cost more to buy than the supplier charges.
How to make Daily Plumping Moisturizer
1What to buy
- BASE All Purpose LotionRainShadow Labs · 5 gal $167.50 · $8.85/LOrder 5 gal per batch
- Bought-in activesper batch
-
MakingCosmetics · Niacinamide USP · 5 kg $224.80
-
MakingCosmetics · Hyaluronic Acid (HMW) · 1 kg $498
-
Lotioncrafter · 10 lb $42.55 · for the glycerin slurry (step on the right)
2Pull from our shelf Wholesale Botanics
- ✓Avocado Oil98 g
- ✓Red Raspberry Seed Oil98 g
3Recipe Start with one 5-gal pail of base (≈ 18.9 kg); finished batch ≈ 19.6 kg
| Ingredient | % | per 1 kg of base | per 5-gal pail of base |
|---|---|---|---|
| BASE All Purpose Lotion | 96.8% | 1,000 g | 18.93 kg |
| BUY Niacinamide | 2.00% | 21 g | 391 g |
| OURS Avocado Oil | 0.50% | 5.2 g | 98 g |
| OURS Red Raspberry Seed Oil | 0.50% | 5.2 g | 98 g |
| BUY Hyaluronic acid powder | 0.20% | 2.1 g | 39 g |
≠How ours differs from theirs
Niacinamide (disclosed 2%) + HA bought in; cloudberry oil swapped for our red raspberry seed oil.
4How to mix
- Clean & set up. Sanitize the mixing vessel, overhead mixer / stick blender, spatulas and beakers with 70% isopropyl alcohol. Gloves on.
- Weigh the base. Weigh the base into the mixing vessel (5 gal of base ≈ 18.9 kg — weigh it, don’t trust the pail line).
- Oil pre-mix. Weigh our oils together in a beaker. Pour slowly into the base while mixing on low for 3–5 minutes.
- Powders. Dissolve the niacinamide in warm (40 °C) distilled water — about twice their weight — then stir it in.
- Hyaluronic acid. Stir the hyaluronic acid powder into 5× its weight of vegetable glycerin to make a smooth slurry, add to the batch, mix, rest 1 hour and mix again.
- Check & rest. Mix until uniform and scrape the sides. Compare with the supplier sample (colour, smell, thickness), check pH is 5.0–6.5. Rest 24 h, re-check for separation, keep a 2 oz retain sample, label with batch # and date, then fill.
These three stay exactly as they are
Collagen Elixir
We already make this in-house. Keep our own formula — nothing to buy, nothing changes.
The research also listed two supplier formulas for it. They are price benchmarks only:
- ★ NourishUs Naturals — Rejuvenating Skin Oil$8.69 per 60 mL premade
- Natural Wholesale — Bakuchiol Treatment Oil$3.11 per 60 mL premade
Peptide Potion
We already make this in-house. Keep our own formula — nothing to buy, nothing changes.
The research also listed two supplier formulas for it. They are price benchmarks only:
- ★ RainShadow Labs — Peptide Complex Serum$1.22 per 60 mL premade
- Nardo's Natural — Peptide Wrinkle Serum$3.92 per 60 mL premade
Arctic Alchemy
We already make this in-house. Keep our own formula — nothing to buy, nothing changes.
The research also listed two supplier formulas for it. They are price benchmarks only:
- ★ RainShadow Labs — Cooling Cucumber & Spirulina Gel$0.69 per 60 mL premade
- RainShadow Labs — Natural Aloe Vera Gel$0.56 per 60 mL premade
Everything for one 5-gal batch of each blend
ABases to order
| Base | Order | Cost |
|---|---|---|
| All Purpose LotionRainShadow Labs · $8.85/L | 3 × 5 gal | $502 |
| for Body Smoothing, Neck + Chest Smoothing, Daily Plumping Moisturizer | ||
| Aloe Vera GelOrganic Creations · $7.29/L | 1 × 5 Gal - Preserve | $138 |
| for Eye Smoothing | ||
BActives to order
- Argireline peptide solution1.10 kgLotioncrafter · Argireline NP solution · 480 g $334.75 · for Eye Smoothing
- Niacinamide790 gMakingCosmetics · Niacinamide USP · 5 kg $224.80 · for Body Smoothing, Daily Plumping Moisturizer
- Matrixyl 3000-type peptide610 gLotioncrafter · LCPeptide 3000 (PT-1 + PT-7) · 480 g $320.25 · for Neck + Chest Smoothing
- Vegetable glycerin509 gLotioncrafter · 10 lb $42.55 · for Neck + Chest Smoothing, Eye Smoothing, Daily Plumping Moisturizer
- Cucumber fruit extract220 gFormulator Sample Shop · Cucumber Extract G PF · 1 kg $61 · for Eye Smoothing
- Licorice root extract211 gFormulator Sample Shop · Licorice Root Extract PF · 1 kg $56.25 · for Neck + Chest Smoothing, Eye Smoothing
- MSM powder199 gBulkSupplements · MSM powder · 1 kg $27.97 (supplement grade) · for Body Smoothing
- Hyaluronic acid powder102 gMakingCosmetics · Hyaluronic Acid (HMW) · 1 kg $498 · for Neck + Chest Smoothing, Eye Smoothing, Daily Plumping Moisturizer
- Allantoin41 gMakingCosmetics · Allantoin · 1 kg $63.90 · for Neck + Chest Smoothing
CPull from our shelf
- ✓Castor Oilfor Eye Smoothing659 g
- ✓Avocado Oilfor Eye Smoothing, Daily Plumping Moisturizer537 g
- ✓Jojoba Oilfor Eye Smoothing439 g
- ✓Squalane (olive)for Neck + Chest Smoothing407 g
- ✓Evening Primrose Oilfor Neck + Chest Smoothing203 g
- ✓Rosehip Oilfor Body Smoothing199 g
- ✓Tamanu Oilfor Body Smoothing199 g
- ✓Red Raspberry Seed Oilfor Daily Plumping Moisturizer98 g
- ✓Coffee oilfor Eye Smoothing55 g
House rules for every batch
✓Equipment
- Bench scale to 0.1 g (actives) + floor scale to 30 kg (base)
- Stainless or HDPE mixing vessel, 8-gal
- Overhead mixer or heavy stick blender, low speed
- Beakers, spatulas, warm-water bath, thermometer
- pH strips or pH meter (for niacinamide / MSM products)
- 70% isopropyl alcohol spray, nitrile gloves, hair net
!Golden rules
- Pilot 1 gal first for every new recipe and compare side-by-side with the supplier sample.
- Weigh everything in grams — never by volume.
- Oils go in pre-mixed, poured slowly while mixing.
- Actives (peptides, extracts) go in last, below 40 °C.
- Keep total add-ins under 15% of the batch so the base’s preservative still works.
✎Before it ships
- Look, smell and thickness match the supplier sample
- pH 5.0–6.5 where the recipe says to check it
- Rest 24 h; no separation, streaks or grit
- Keep a 2 oz retain sample per batch
- Batch record: date, batch #, lot numbers, weights, who mixed it
- First batch of each product: send one sample for a preservative (challenge) test